Jessica Gephart is an assistant professor in the School of Aquatic and Fishery Science at the University of Washington, where she runs the seafood globalization lab. Her research focuses on the intersection of seafood globalization and environmental change, evaluating how seafood trade drives distant environmental impacts, as well as how environmental shocks disrupt seafood trade. Gephart served on the scientific leadership team for the blue food assessment, where she co-led the environment and justice chapters and served as a US science envoy for the U.S. Department of State.
Episode Description
More than 3 billion people rely on seafood to supply a significant portion of the annual protein in their diets. That number will only rise as the global population grows. At the same time, the United Nations reports that 85% of the world's fisheries are overfished or fully exploited. Researchers are studying the global seafood trade in search of sustainable solutions, and that's a focus of this episode of Stats+Stories with guest Jessica Gephart.
Transcript
Rosemary Pennington:
More than 3 billion people rely on seafood to supply a significant portion of the annual protein in their diets. That number will only rise as the global population grows. At the same time, the United Nations reports that 85% of the world's fisheries are overfished or fully exploited.
Researchers are studying the global seafood trade in search of sustainable solutions, and that's the focus of this episode of Stats and Stories, where we explore the statistics behind the stories and the stories behind the statistics.
I'm Rosemary Pennington. Stats and Stories is a production of the American Statistical Association in partnership with Miami University's Departments of Statistics and Media, Journalism, and Film. Joining me, as always, is regular panelist John Baylor, emeritus professor of statistics at Miami University.
Our guest today is Jessica Gephart, an assistant professor in the School of Aquatic and Fishery Sciences at the University of Washington, where she runs the Seafood Globalization Lab. Her research focuses on the intersection of seafood globalization and environmental change, evaluating how seafood trade drives distant environmental impacts, as well as how environmental shocks disrupt seafood trade.
Gephart served on the scientific leadership team for the Blue Food Assessment, where she co-led the environment and justice chapters, and served as a U.S. science envoy for the U.S. Department of State. Jessica, thank you so much for joining us today.
Jessica Gephart:
Thank you for having me. It's so nice to see you both.
John Bailer:
It’s truly a treat to see you again, and thanks for taking the time. I first encountered the phrase “blue food” while preparing for this conversation and saw that you’ve worked with a group called Blue Food Futures. Can you tell us what you mean by “blue food,” and how you first got interested in this topic?
Jessica Gephart:
The term “blue food” came about a few years ago as a way to address the lack of a universally agreed-upon term for fish and other aquatic foods. “Fish” doesn’t fully capture everything we eat from oceans, lakes, and streams—like shellfish and crustaceans. “Seafood” often refers only to marine sources, and “aquatic foods” can sound overly technical.
So “blue food” emerged as a more accessible term, though many groups use it interchangeably with “aquatic foods.”
My interest began during my undergraduate studies abroad at the University of Ghana. I took fisheries courses there, which focused heavily on fish as food and on human systems. That’s quite different from the U.S., where fisheries are often framed as natural or economic resources—more like forestry than agriculture.
John Bailer:
How important are aquatic foods in our diets?
Jessica Gephart:
Globally, about 15% of animal-source protein comes from aquatic foods. But beyond protein, they’re key sources of omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, and trace elements.
They’re also vital for livelihoods, identity, and culture—especially in coastal and island communities. For example, in Kiribati, people consume over 70 kilograms, or about 154 pounds, of fish per year. In contrast, the average U.S. consumer eats about 20 pounds annually.
Rosemary Pennington:
Global studies raise the question of how large-scale trends affect local communities. How do you trace the local impacts of global seafood trade?
Jessica Gephart:
Trade data is typically reported at the national level, so it’s difficult to see local effects. My approach has been to improve global data resolution—identifying species involved in trade—while partnering with local researchers who provide context.
For example, collaborators in Chile study illegal, unreported, and unregulated fishing. We combine their local insights with trade data to understand impacts on fishing communities.
It’s about bridging scales, but there’s still a lot of work to do.
John Bailer:
That sounds incredibly complex. How do you deal with inconsistencies in the data?
Jessica Gephart:
It’s very challenging. Trade data from ports, national databases, and international reports often don’t match.
Additionally, many species are grouped into broad categories, making it hard to trace them to specific fisheries.
Our work with the Aquatic Trade and Resource Database aims to disaggregate this information—identifying species and origins—but uncertainty remains.
John Bailer:
What is the largest blue food import into the U.S.?
Jessica Gephart:
Whiteleg shrimp is the largest import at the species level. About 90% of shrimp consumed in the U.S. is imported, much of it farmed, with a significant portion coming from India.
Pollock is heavily consumed as well, but it’s mostly domestically sourced.
Rosemary Pennington:
How do you navigate working with international partners who may have different perspectives on fisheries?
Jessica Gephart:
It starts with listening and understanding local perspectives.
During my time as a U.S. science envoy in Senegal and The Gambia, I saw how sensitive issues like illegal fishing can be. There are tensions between countries, concerns about foreign fleets, and competing priorities around nutrition and economics.
After understanding the context, I examine the data to identify patterns and discrepancies, then look for policy opportunities.
John Bailer:
Is demand for blue food increasing, and does that raise sustainability concerns?
Jessica Gephart:
Yes, consumption is increasing, but much of the growth comes from aquaculture. Over half of global seafood consumption is now farmed.
This shifts sustainability concerns from overfishing to issues like water use, pollution, and emissions.
Rosemary Pennington:
What’s an underappreciated story about aquaculture?
Jessica Gephart:
In the U.S., resistance to domestic aquaculture has led to increased imports, effectively offshoring environmental impacts.
A good example is catfish. The U.S. once had a strong domestic industry, but imports of Vietnamese pangasius—produced more cheaply—have overtaken it, despite protective policies.
John Bailer:
What is the largest blue food export from the U.S.?
Jessica Gephart:
Alaska pollock is the largest export. The U.S. is a major seafood producer, with valuable fisheries for crab, oysters, and lobster as well.
John Bailer:
Are you concerned about the sustainability of global seafood trade?
Jessica Gephart:
Trade itself accounts for only about 10% of emissions. Production methods matter far more than transportation.
Sustainability depends on responsible fisheries and aquaculture management. Tools like the Seafood Import Monitoring Program and certification systems help, but improvements are needed.
Rosemary Pennington:
What’s one issue we should be paying more attention to?
Jessica Gephart:
Labor abuse in seafood supply chains. Workers on fishing vessels can be at sea for months, creating conditions for exploitation.
These issues also occur in processing plants. Addressing them may require expanding monitoring programs and strengthening labor protections.
John Bailer:
How can consumers make responsible choices?
Jessica Gephart:
Start with trusted retailers who prioritize responsible sourcing.
Use tools like Seafood Watch for guidance.
In general, U.S. seafood is well managed. Farmed bivalves and small, oily fish are often sustainable choices.
Rosemary Pennington:
That’s all the time we have for this episode of Stats and Stories. Jessica, thank you so much for joining us today.
Jessica Gephart:
Thank you for having me.
Rosemary Pennington:
Stats and Stories is a partnership between the American Statistical Association and Miami University's Departments of Statistics and Media, Journalism, and Film.
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Be sure to join us for future episodes of Stats and Stories, where we explore the statistics behind the stories—and the stories behind the statistics.